Outdoors, wind is the #1 reason heaters “don’t work”, even with high wattage. For real, felt warmth (terraces, pergolas, hospitality), you need to understand what wind removes and how to design an installation that stays effective.
1) Why wind cancels most outdoor heating
Wind is not only a sensation — it is a loss accelerator. Any system that mainly heats air (convection) struggles outdoors because warm air is immediately replaced by cold air.
Convection (heated air)
- Wind carries warm air away
- The air volume is effectively “infinite”
- Comfort fluctuates constantly
Radiant heat (people & surfaces)
- Wind impacts perceived warmth far less
- You heat a zone, not the whole environment
- Comfort is faster and more stable
Key idea: in windy outdoor spaces, comfort comes first from infrared radiant heat, then from smart zoning and correct geometry (height, angle, distance).
2) Not all “windy terraces” are the same
Before comparing products, identify your real scenario:
You need focused radiation and often multiple heat points. Priority: heat the occupied zone (table/lounge), not the whole area.
Great conditions for infrared: aim for even coverage and fine aiming. Ceiling/structure mounting is usually ideal.
Comfort improves dramatically because losses drop. You can often use fewer units and gain better control (zones/dimming).
3) The pro method: “zone + aiming + radiant density”
Outdoors, you don’t optimise “watts” first — you optimise radiant density on the occupied zone. Use this order:
- Define the occupied zone (table, lounge, queue, service)
- Set mounting height per zone
- Aim into the zone (often 30–45° depending on height/distance)
- Open spaces need multiple points rather than one “big” heater
Common mistake: one powerful unit, mounted too high and too wide. Result: warm floor/air, not warm people.
4) Anti-wind checklist
Do
- Zone first: 1 heater = 1 usable zone
- Keep height under control
- Aim at people, not empty space
- Open terraces: plan multiple heat points
- Reduce airflow when possible (screens/blinds)
Avoid
- “W/m²” sizing without zones
- Mounting too high “to cover more”
- Glare / harsh visible glow
- Heating non-occupied areas
- Ignoring prevailing wind direction
5) FAQ
Yes. Infrared warms people and surfaces directly, so wind disrupts perceived warmth far less than convective heating.
Work with smaller zones, add more heat points, lower mounting height where possible, aim precisely, and reduce airflow with side protection.
Because comfort depends on radiant density and aiming. Too high or too diffuse means energy goes where you don’t need it.