Measure and position: the professional guide to the right height and angle for Heatscope and Heatstrip radiant heaters
Installing a Heatscope or Heatstrip radiant heater is not only a matter of choosing the correct power. Real comfort depends on mounting height, beam angle and the way several heaters overlap across the occupied area.
The wattage shown on the product label is only the starting point. A poorly positioned infrared heater can feel weak, even when it is technically powerful, because the radiant beam does not reach the people or surfaces that need to be warmed.
1) Mounting height: the first comfort parameter
Mounting height determines the heat density perceived at seat or standing level. Too high, the sensation becomes diluted. Too low, the heat can become too intense for people sitting directly underneath.
Recommended ranges
- Heatstrip flat panels: 2.10 m to 2.50 m, ideal for verandas, covered terraces and pergolas requiring broad, even warmth.
- Heatscope Pure / Vision: 2.20 m to 2.70 m, with focused heat and controlled light emission for premium residential terraces.
- Heatscope Spot / Max and high-output Heatstrip: 2.50 m to 3.00 m, for higher ceilings, restaurant terraces, bars, hotels and professional outdoor spaces.
These figures are comfort ranges. Always follow the installation manual for the mandatory minimum distances of the exact model.
Too high or too low
- Too high: the energy density drops before it reaches the occupied zone. The heater works, but the comfort is limited.
- Too low: the radiant beam can feel aggressive for seated people. Respecting the minimum height is better than trying to compensate with angle alone.
2) Beam angle: directing heat where people actually sit
The angle is as important as the height. The goal is not to warm a wall, a window or the empty centre of a terrace, but tables, lounge seats, counters and the areas where people remain.
Wall mounting
A tilt of around 30° to 45° is usually the most efficient starting point. It directs the beam towards the upper body and seating zone instead of sending most of the energy to the floor.
Ceiling or suspended mounting
For ceiling mounting, the heater is generally horizontal. This works well under pergolas, veranda roofs, covered terraces and counters. If the warm zone is offset, some suspension kits can allow a slight angle.
For a clean visual result, align the appliance with beams, pergola blades, glazing or architectural lines.
3) Overlap: creating a continuous warm zone
On a large terrace, comfort rarely comes from one oversized unit. It comes from several heaters placed so their effective zones overlap.
- Define the real comfort zone first: dining table, lounge, counter or circulation area.
- Do not place two heaters only at the extreme edge of their coverage.
- As a rule of thumb, spacing between units should often be about 70 to 80% of the width of the comfort zone.
- For exposed terraces, multiply heating points and use stronger ranges instead of relying on a single central appliance.
4) Safety distances and IP rating
A good installation must be efficient, but it must first be safe. Manufacturer distances are mandatory and must always override generic advice.
- Check distances to ceilings, walls, floors and combustible materials such as wood, fabrics, blinds, curtains and parasols.
- For rain-exposed areas, use a model with an IP rating suitable for the orientation and level of protection, often IPX4 or IPX5 depending on the case.
- For protected verandas, loggias or closed pergolas, a lower IP level may be sufficient, but the technical manual remains the reference.
Checklist before installation
- Measure the fixing height.
- Select the model, power and IP rating.
- Check all minimum distances.
- Define the warm zone and expected use.
- Plan overlap when several heaters are used.
- Consider prevailing wind and shelter level.
For complex projects such as a restaurant terrace, a large pergola or a professional outdoor space, a layout study is often worthwhile before installation.